African Wax 3D Printed Fabric
The popular african wax 3d printed fabric is a colourful cotton cloth. Originally influenced by batik, an Indonesian technique, it has since become an essential part of African fashion. The pattern reflects African pride and status, with certain patterns often having specific meanings for different occasions.
Researchers from Kenya and Zimbabwe have investigated how to improve the adhesion of 3D printing on woven fabrics. They studied the relationship between a number of factors including fabric areal density, warp and weft count.
What is African Wax Printing?
African wax print fabrics are colourful cotton textiles made using a mechanised wax-resist printing technique inspired by Indonesian batik. They are also known as Ankara, Hollandais and Dutch Wax Fabric and they come in a wide range of patterns from motifs of a fan to ones of flowers.
Traditionally, this type of fabric was produced by hand-painting intricate designs on cloth using beeswax that would then be dyed in a vivid colour. The areas of the cloth that had been coated in wax resisted the dye and left the pattern on the surface of the cloth when the wax was removed. This process was mechanised by European countries such as the Netherlands who would pass through West Africa for trade, military mobilisation and missionary work.
Some shops around sub-Saharan Africa still produce this type of cloth by hand, but many are now producing them on a large scale to lower production costs and keep african wax 3d printed fabric up with demand. These factories may not be making authentic wax prints, but they are still generating income and bringing customers to their shop.
The beauty of this type of fabric is that it tells a story and often has a deeper meaning for the wearer. The best way to support the artisans is to purchase authentic fabric that has been made in Africa. This not only ensures that the skills of the artisans are kept alive but also helps to avoid cultural appropriation.
Why African Wax Printing?
African wax print is a fashion trend that seems to be here to stay. It has appeared on runways in Europe and Africa, and is influencing designs worldwide. From Beyonce rocking it at her baby shower to Supreme’s newest line, the fabric has become a symbol of empowerment and a fashion statement that is undoubtedly resonating with the world.
Also known as ankara and kitenge, African wax prints are industrially produced colourful cotton fabrics with patterns inspired by batik. The difference between this and traditional batik is that the fabric is pre-printed with a pattern that has been mechanised to make it faster and more economical.
Once the pattern is printed, a dye bath is applied and the patterned areas are covered with wax to prevent the colour from seeping through. This process can be done by hand or with big machines. The advantage of this technique is that the colours can be mixed on the surface of the cloth, creating a marbled effect.
The final colour of the cloth is then applied by using copper rollers etched with the pattern design. Usually, the name of the fabric, product and registration number are printed on the selvage of the cloth identifying its authenticity and quality. Authentic African Wax print is made with 100% cotton which makes it breathable, cool and comfortable to wear. The patterns often have meaning and are used to signify things like family, wealth and status.
Origins of African Wax Printing
A plethora of patterns and vibrant colors come to mind when people think of African wax african wax 3d printed fabric prints. But beneath these aesthetics is a rich and complex history. As Vogue talks to Anne Grosfilley, the author of a new book on African wax print textiles (out this month from Prestel), the complexity and controversy surrounding this popular fabric is revealed.
Initially, Dutch traders replicated Indonesian batik on their trip from Europe to Africa, adapting the designs and colors to appeal to West African audiences. The result was the African wax printed fabrics that we know and love today.
It was around the same time that Nigerian adire tie-dye came to prominence as well. While these types of cloths don’t spark the same debate over cultural appropriation as African wax prints, they are still foreign textiles that have woven themselves into the fabric of Africa.
A common misconception is that African wax prints are indigenous to Africa, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. In actuality, they are European textiles that have become ingrained in African culture and society through the various ages of trade and globalization. The patterns and colors have even become a language of sorts with each pattern expressing a different meaning. This is why it’s important to recognize the origin of these pieces and not simply treat them as a trend.
Modern African Wax Printing
African wax print clothing has become a global phenomenon. The patterns have gone from being a fashion statement to a symbol of Africa’s rich history. Many of the prints have stories and hidden meanings that can be told by the people who wear them.
During the 1800s, West African soldiers serving in Indonesia brought the batik fabrics back to their homes. These were then replicated by European traders using modern machinery to create the fabrics we know as African wax prints today. The fabric became popular in the 1950s and gained more mystique during West Africa’s fight for independence from colonialism.
Today, the pattern’s popularity has prompted manufacturers to produce the fabrics in bulk and export them around the world. Although the fabrics have become more widely available, not everyone knows the story behind them and how to differentiate authentic African textiles from cheap Chinese copies.
While the designs are rooted in tradition, they also reflect Africa’s political and cultural landscape. Belinda Compah-Keyeke, the owner and designer of Zoharous, a Ghana-based fashion line, said that her most popular design, Nkrumah Pencil, symbolizes the power Nkrumah’s pen had to sign orders used to control political opponents.
While the cloths are a reflection of past and present, they also serve as a means of preserving African culture for future generations. “These commemorative cotton cloths are a form of documentation,” says Anne Grosfilley, an anthropologist and author of a new book called African Wax Print Textiles. “They allow us to see how people have changed and what has remained the same.”
